Madeira: The far-flung ‘Hawaii of Europe’

With its tropical climate, looming volcanic mountains and stunning black-sand beaches, it’s no wonder Madeira, Portugal, has been called the “Hawaii of Europe”.

However, this autonomous island chain off the north-west coast of North Africa has a culture and history all its own that is leading more and more travellers to explore its far-flung shores.

Rajan Datar, from BBC’s The Travel Show recently journeyed to the archipelago to explore its unique ecosystem and look at the ways the area is tackling its increase in tourism.

Settled by the Portuguese in 1425, the island quickly became a hotspot for sugar production and local arts, including the bordado Madeira, a unique style of embroidery that has been passed down on these islands for generations. However, most people around the world know the name Madeira because of its famous fortified wine.

What makes Madeiran wine so unique is its ability to age almost indefinitely, which contributes to its complex flavour. Winemakers heat the wine to a temperature of 45C to 50C for around three months and then let it gradually cool before beginning the ageing process. The type of grape used also greatly affects the wine’s flavour, which can range from a dry, tangy Sercial to a dark raisin- or caramel-flavoured Bual.

As in Hawaii, Madeira’s natural environment is a main draw for travellers, and the mountainous and densely forested landscape offers countless opportunities to get outside. One of the most popular things to explore on the archipelago’s main eponymous island of Madeira are the levadas (water channels), which were created in the 15th Century to carry water from the more humid north of the island to the drier south. The 3,100km network of levadas has created a number of popular hikes, like the Levada do Caldeirão Verde, but in recent months, some people have expressed concerns about overtourism of the sites.

“The Caminho Real was built for mobility, for transporting goods, so this is its purpose,” explained Gouveia. “This is a good alternative for people to know Maderia in an immersive way.”

Some Caminho Real routes offer sweeping views of one of Madeira’s main natural features that remind visitors of Hawaii: its stunning, multicoloured beaches. Surrounded by crystal-clear waters, Madeira’s beaches range from golden sand imported from Morocco to striking black-pebbled beaches created by ancient volcanic activity. There are also excellent opportunities for water sports here, including surfing, diving and even whale-watching.

As a result, this far-flung corner of Europe has experienced a recent uptick in visitors since the Covid-19 pandemic. According to local guides, there has also been a major shift of the type of visitors coming as well.

“There were families with children [coming after the pandemic], there were [digital] nomads, there were young people that were just trying to go somewhere,” said Ana Isabel Faria, who works as a tour guide on the island. “They arrived here and said, ‘Oh my God, where am I?’ They were amazed.”

As more people discover Madeira’s natural beauty, residents here are determined to maintain the island’s laidback culture and preserve its delicate ecosystem.