The 89-mile train ride with incredible views linking two European countries

The Bernina Express is one of the world’s most celebrated scenic trains, travelling 89 miles through the two beautiful European countries of Switzerland and Italy.

While travelling through 55 tunnels and over 196 bridges, the specially adapted coaches provide breathtaking views of glaciers at one end and palm trees at the other. 

The entire 89-mile journey takes around four to four and a half hours. This is relatively short when compared with its sister train and closest competitor – the Glacier Express – which takes eight hours to travel from Zermatt to Saint Moritz, both in Switzerland. 

The train begins in Switzerland’s oldest town, Chur, and ends in the town and commune of Tirano in northern Italy.

It passes through the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Rhaetian Railway, which has held the status since July 2008 thanks to its unique construction technology and routing.

Some of the route’s highlights include the Bernina mountain range, the Morteratsch Glacier – the third largest glacier in the Eastern Alps, the three lakes of Lej Pitschen, Lej Nair and Lago Bianco, the Alp Grum and the Brusio Circular Viaduct.

The trip can then be extended to Lugano by the Bernina Express Bus, which covers a further 56 miles and takes about three hours. This journey passes through Valtellina vineyards and picturesque villages along Lake Como. From Lugano, you then travel at high speed through the Gotthard Base Tunnel back to German-speaking Switzerland. 

The route is one of the highest railway tracks in Europe and is the steepest in the world. On the Albula line, the train leaves the city of Chur (585m) in Graubunden and follows the course of the Rhine to Bonaduz (655m). From there, it enters the Domleschg Valley and follows the Posterior Rhine from Rhazuns (658m) to Thusis (697m). It continues toward Tiefencastel (851m), following the Albula and crosses the Landwasser Viaduct before arriving at Filisur (1,032). It then passes its first spiral tunnel and continues to Bergun/ Bravuogn (1,373m).

Between Bergun/ Bravuogn and Peda (1,789m), at the end of the valley, the train has to achieve a height difference of about 400m, with a horizontal distance of 3.1 miles without using rack-and-pinion but with many spirals. It then enters Alula Tunnel at 1,815m under Albula Pass. It emerges in Val Bever, where it reaches Bever (1,708m) on the Engadin plain. The train then continues toward Samedan (1,721m) and arrives at Pontresina station (1,774m) in Val Bernina. 

Taking the Bernina line, the train leaves Pontresina and ascends progressively through valley to the Bernina Pass over Morteratsch station (1,896m), where the glacier and the highest summit of Eastern Alps, Piz Bernina (4,093m), are visible. The train stops at Bernina Diavolezza (2,093m) for cable-car connects to Diavolezza. The Bernina Express reaches the summit at the Ospizio Bernina station at 2,253 m above Lago Bianco.

Alp Grum (2,091m) is the first station south of Alps, above Lago Palu and right below Piz Palu and its glacier. After many hairpins turns, it reaches Cavaglia (1,693m) above Val Poschiavo and then the Swiss-Italian-speaking town of Poschiavo (1,014m). It then follows the course of Poschiavo and stops at Le Prese (964m) and Miralago (965m), both on Lake Poschiavo’s shore. It continues its descent toward Brusio (780m), where it passes the spiral Brusio Viaduct. Shortly after the Italian border at Campocologno (553m), the train ends its journey at Tirano station (430m). 

In the summer, a special train is used that travels from Chur to Pontresina with very few stops. After changing locomotives in Pontresina due to a different electricity line on the Bernina line, the train continues with a few stops to Tirano. In the other seasons, the train comprises several cars that are attached to regional services. 

The service is operated by the Rhaetian Railway company, purely for sightseeing. The coaches have been adapted to be panoramic, with enlarged windows and multilingual audio guides in English, German and Italian. 

While there is no dining car, there is a minibar which offers snacks and drinks. Guests are able to spend lunchtime in Tirano. There is also free WiFi on board. 

The price of a first-class ticket from Chur to Tirano is CHF 113 (£98.36), with the return costing CHF 226 (£196.71). For second class, a one-way ticket costs CHF 66 (£57.45), with a return costing double. Children under six can travel free, while those aged six to 16 cost half the regular fare. 

Groups of 10 or more can get a 30 percent discount on regular public transport tickets. Seat reservation is mandatory, a maximum of 90 days in advance for both train and bus. The bus extension costs just CHF 14, or £12.19.  

For the best views, it is recommended to sit on the right side if travelling north to south, and vice versa, according to interrail. Whatever the time of year, you will be blessed with spectacular views: green fields and melting glaciers in the summer, and deep snow in the winter. 

On Tripadvisor, one recent user said the Bernina Express was “definitely worth a trip”, describing the “very comfortable train with drinks, snacks and souvenirs available,” as having “fantastic views of the Alps from the train with a stop for photos at the highest point”. 

Another said: “A UNESCO world heritage listed railway that fully lives up to expectations… Breathtaking views, and excellent comfort for the 4-hour journey to Tirano.”